Eger is also famed for its wines, the local "bulls blood", and has a whole area crammed with wine cellars and bistros where you can get any container filled up for €2 a litre - the so called " valley of the beautiful woman", evidently named by a crafty marketing campaign at some point in the past.
You could spend days happily swaying between cellars getting blotto - note for a different kind of trip.
I'm continuing to another nearby attraction, the amazing "salt hill", basically a hillside with a spring so saline that it deposits salt crystals all over the place and makes interesting formations - now with adjacent mega spa resort.
After that minor diversion, south bound, and suddenly hills are fading into the distant past, it's flat flat flat, the horizon is the end of the next field, fields are full of drooping, wilting sunflowers, their heavy heads bowed in resignation to their fate, and onwards to Tisza lake, really a reservoir, now also a national park and popular recreation spot with fishermen, pedalols, "beaches" etc.
Crossing the causeway I met Quentin from Switzerland coming this other way - leading two horses, one saddled, one with his luggage, he has been travelling like this for two years and is, returning from Greece, looking every inch the adventurous explorer of old, except that we are on a busy A road.
I can't resist a break for a swim in the lake, which is not the cleanest as it turns out but there are showers at the beach ;) then onwards along a nice easy path on top of the dike to look for w camping spot - which is where hubris strikes, as dark falls quickly and the mosquitoes come out in whole squadrons. In the end I have run away in land away from the water a few km, and stuck my tent up in a random field - mozzies much reduced but I can still hear them droning around outside. They haven't been a problem previously as I have been camping in high altitude meadows etc, so something to keep in mind for future...
... I was wondering why it seemed like I kept getting dive bombed by a yellow biplane today, originally assuming it was just practicing landings or something, but after some googling of mozzies it seems there is an anti mosquito spraying program in operation.
Longest day ever today distance wise, clocking in at 119km, entirely flat such that tiny gradients over bridges feel like a strain.
Not much to see either, mainly riding on the levy following the Tisza river, and its 30 something degrees with very little shade so I'm stopping in every village for a cheap ice lolly from the local co-op.
Massive contrast in fortunes from one field to the next - amazing brand new tractors with caterpillar tracks, and then just down the road two blokes stripped to the waist, with a horse pulling a hand guided plough.
Passed quickly through Sznolnok, largest city in the region but with nothing to see as it has been destroyed in every war since year one.
Spent the night at a home stay airbnb, with the incredibly hospitable Jozef and Edith, who have semi retired to the village from Budapest, although Josef still has to go out to work at the post office at 5am.
Smashed out a quick 40km next morning to reach the contrastingly architecturally delightful town of Kecskemet, full of art deco flourishes and pastel palaces.
I have plenty of time to pop into museums, the best one being the "gallery of naive artists", which is essentially folk art created by people with no formal training. They do seem to cherish their rural folk culture in this part of the world, as whenever I've stayed anywhere with a TV there's always been a channel showing nothing but.
Two leisurely days now to reach Budapest, flat and fairly featureless. Today I got my first look at the river Danube, maybe I should try floating down it instead of riding next to it.
South!
Hills? Everyone keeps saying Hungary is all flat and boring but that is not true of the northern part. Sweaty climb today from 150m to 800m up a winding road through Bukki National park, briefly stopping for ice cream is the only other feature. Its difficult to get a photo which encapsulates the landscape as forest covers everything, literally you can't see the woods for the trees. The road surface is terrible and on a descent all the bumping and rattling causes the screws holding my pannier bags together to work loose and fall out. Most of the originals have been replaced by nuts and bolts and in one case a bit of knotted string! A nice Hungarian family stopped to see if I needed any help while I was cursing by the roadside but it is only a minor repair as I am carrying lots of spares for this eventuality.
After yesterdays efforts today is a doddle, downhill all the way to Eger, with 15km of glorious bendy tarmac and hairpin bends with barely any peddling to start.
Eger is a picturesque historic town, with some interesting architecture, an old castle, and a LIDL, hooray. This is the first proper town / city I've been through in Hungary and it feels like reaching civilisation after a sojourn in the wilderness. I only have a few hours of prime sightseeing so maybe the Marzipan gallery wasn't the best choice, but I don't remember seeing a museum of objects and pictures made out of cake and icing before so at least something different.
Then a nap in the park and back to airbnb to do some cooking.
Hills? Everyone keeps saying Hungary is all flat and boring but that is not true of the northern part. Sweaty climb today from 150m to 800m up a winding road through Bukki National park, briefly stopping for ice cream is the only other feature. Its difficult to get a photo which encapsulates the landscape as forest covers everything, literally you can't see the woods for the trees. The road surface is terrible and on a descent all the bumping and rattling causes the screws holding my pannier bags together to work loose and fall out. Most of the originals have been replaced by nuts and bolts and in one case a bit of knotted string! A nice Hungarian family stopped to see if I needed any help while I was cursing by the roadside but it is only a minor repair as I am carrying lots of spares for this eventuality.
After yesterdays efforts today is a doddle, downhill all the way to Eger, with 15km of glorious bendy tarmac and hairpin bends with barely any peddling to start.
Eger is a picturesque historic town, with some interesting architecture, an old castle, and a LIDL, hooray. This is the first proper town / city I've been through in Hungary and it feels like reaching civilisation after a sojourn in the wilderness. I only have a few hours of prime sightseeing so maybe the Marzipan gallery wasn't the best choice, but I don't remember seeing a museum of objects and pictures made out of cake and icing before so at least something different.
Then a nap in the park and back to airbnb to do some cooking.
After a slow start to the day, made slower by following a bike path that turned into a flooded muddy lane, I'm on track for the Hungarian border. One final stop at a roadside monument to the liberation of the area by the red army, which seems to have been erected by the commies as a reminder of who is holding the guns, and finally over the crest of a hill into a whole new country.
The landscape is immediately totally different, well not really but it feels like a fresh start, well the woodlands are predominantly broadleaf now rather than forestry pine?
And quickly recording first "Castle on a hill". In the next couple of days there are a few more but they're all detours and I can't quite be bothered. Am I becoming a castle critic?
Plenty of wildlife, Birds of prey, deer, woodpeckers.
Little narrow gauge railway up the valley, I'm travelling through the Zempléni Landscape Protection Area, a hilly forestry bit full of wild blackberries.
Every village has regular water hand pumps, picnic benches, camping doesn't seem to be forbidden.
Vineyards vineyards vineyards, and cycle route signposting, whatever next?
Well, next day is back to earth, up and down small mounds under baking sun, villages are more rustic and obviously poorer, the water pumps I thought were helpful relics are being used in earnest by villagers, of which there are many Roma heritage. Several villages are having some kind of fête, first weekend after some national day?
To finish the day I get chased by unchained dogs twice, swarmed by Roma children once, and then have to move my tent as it turns out a bloke with a gun is unimpressed that I've scared the deer away. Anyway, end up with a peaceful night under a perfectly clear sky, with just the distant sound of party music and fireworks drifting up the valley.
Short day today (sun 25th Aug), to cover the last 20km to Aggtelek, famed for its massive cave system. The main show cave I visited next to the campsite is suitably impressive, with a bonus demonstration of the acoustics in one huge cavern used for concerts. The rest is all stalactites, stalagmites, pillars, etc.
And a relaxing afternoon chewing off all my finger nails listening to test match special as Ben Stokes takes England from "the ashes are lost" to "miraculous recovery". and then some beer and goulash and dumplings and an obscene chocolatey dessert. Spoiling myself.
The landscape is immediately totally different, well not really but it feels like a fresh start, well the woodlands are predominantly broadleaf now rather than forestry pine?
And quickly recording first "Castle on a hill". In the next couple of days there are a few more but they're all detours and I can't quite be bothered. Am I becoming a castle critic?
Plenty of wildlife, Birds of prey, deer, woodpeckers.
Little narrow gauge railway up the valley, I'm travelling through the Zempléni Landscape Protection Area, a hilly forestry bit full of wild blackberries.
Every village has regular water hand pumps, picnic benches, camping doesn't seem to be forbidden.
Vineyards vineyards vineyards, and cycle route signposting, whatever next?
Well, next day is back to earth, up and down small mounds under baking sun, villages are more rustic and obviously poorer, the water pumps I thought were helpful relics are being used in earnest by villagers, of which there are many Roma heritage. Several villages are having some kind of fête, first weekend after some national day?
To finish the day I get chased by unchained dogs twice, swarmed by Roma children once, and then have to move my tent as it turns out a bloke with a gun is unimpressed that I've scared the deer away. Anyway, end up with a peaceful night under a perfectly clear sky, with just the distant sound of party music and fireworks drifting up the valley.
Short day today (sun 25th Aug), to cover the last 20km to Aggtelek, famed for its massive cave system. The main show cave I visited next to the campsite is suitably impressive, with a bonus demonstration of the acoustics in one huge cavern used for concerts. The rest is all stalactites, stalagmites, pillars, etc.
And a relaxing afternoon chewing off all my finger nails listening to test match special as Ben Stokes takes England from "the ashes are lost" to "miraculous recovery". and then some beer and goulash and dumplings and an obscene chocolatey dessert. Spoiling myself.
Trip distance has got reset somehow.
It was at 2290 or thereabouts I'm fairly sure.
Stopped in a couple of picturesque old towns today, Kezmarok and Levoca, with more UNESCO statuses. I had thought UNESCO status was akin to a second division wonder of the world, but they seem to give them out left right and centre to anything historic, or maybe Slovakia is just particularly well represented, or maybe I have just been ignorant to the extent of the scheme before now. Whatever.
Also took the opportunity to pop into a bike shop and get another kick stand, as the one I bought last week was never really up to the job and is already bending in the same spot. The new one is designed for e-bikes so maybe will cope with the weight better.
Spis has a massive castle on a hill! A particularly large one which you can see from miles away. Seems to be perpetually cloudy with a chance of thunderstorms, the type of thunder which rumbles for so long it sounds like someone pushing a wheelie bin down a cobble street.
I've treated myself to an airbnb after a week of camping, and have got somewhat overexcited at the prospect of a kitchen, and eaten enough for an average family.
Today I am passing what I can only describe as shanty towns of Roma, shacks and rough houses grafted onto the hillside above the road, built out of breezeblocks, corrugated sheet roofs and random bits and bobs, with loads of people sitting around, kids getting very excited at my passing by, some running over for a high five and in one opposite case throwing stones at me.
I feel similarly obvious and vulnerable and intruding as one the trip in Africa as our big yellow lorry rolled through native villages, offering nothing and hurrying on.
The afternoon is more positive, with a peaceful little road along a winding river valley which has been hydro dammed.
Arriving into Kosice, the second city and "eastern capital" of Slovakia is initially an overwhelming number of concrete blocks of flats stacked on the hillside, but the old city centre itself is very pleasant and deserves more time than the scant hours I've given it.
I am feeling ready to move on though and start afresh...
It was at 2290 or thereabouts I'm fairly sure.
Stopped in a couple of picturesque old towns today, Kezmarok and Levoca, with more UNESCO statuses. I had thought UNESCO status was akin to a second division wonder of the world, but they seem to give them out left right and centre to anything historic, or maybe Slovakia is just particularly well represented, or maybe I have just been ignorant to the extent of the scheme before now. Whatever.
Also took the opportunity to pop into a bike shop and get another kick stand, as the one I bought last week was never really up to the job and is already bending in the same spot. The new one is designed for e-bikes so maybe will cope with the weight better.
Spis has a massive castle on a hill! A particularly large one which you can see from miles away. Seems to be perpetually cloudy with a chance of thunderstorms, the type of thunder which rumbles for so long it sounds like someone pushing a wheelie bin down a cobble street.
I've treated myself to an airbnb after a week of camping, and have got somewhat overexcited at the prospect of a kitchen, and eaten enough for an average family.
Today I am passing what I can only describe as shanty towns of Roma, shacks and rough houses grafted onto the hillside above the road, built out of breezeblocks, corrugated sheet roofs and random bits and bobs, with loads of people sitting around, kids getting very excited at my passing by, some running over for a high five and in one opposite case throwing stones at me.
I feel similarly obvious and vulnerable and intruding as one the trip in Africa as our big yellow lorry rolled through native villages, offering nothing and hurrying on.
The afternoon is more positive, with a peaceful little road along a winding river valley which has been hydro dammed.
Arriving into Kosice, the second city and "eastern capital" of Slovakia is initially an overwhelming number of concrete blocks of flats stacked on the hillside, but the old city centre itself is very pleasant and deserves more time than the scant hours I've given it.
I am feeling ready to move on though and start afresh...